Getting ahead of the rope!

Fear is real, just danger

The first steps in my lead climbing career began on the 21 metre monster walls at Beacon Climbing Centre in Caernarfon, North Wales. I had seen plenty of people stepping onto the wall at Wolf Mountain in Wolverhampton and knew the basic of climbing ahead of the rope and basically not killing myself. But as they say proof is in the pudding (or leading in this case) and I was jumping in at the deep end as I liked to do. I set out on my first couple of climbs on the smaller and less daunting wall to the side of the main room, however I could feel the presence of the giant over hanging beast staring behind me. That sick nervous feeling was in my stomach at this time (Commitment to my resolution!). These shorter routes when without a hitch and observing Dan fly up an easy 5+ I knew the time to strap on a pair and take to main wall.

How to catch 14 stone?

Before making my attempt at the main wall Dan needed to teach someone the essentials of lead belaying to allow him to climb himself. Steve was the obvious choice a trusted guy in the group with Scout leader climbing experience behind him. However, Steve isn't the biggest of guys and Dan is a fairly large unit (14 stone see the link), after the basics Dan decided to test what Steve has learnt. The test involved him climbing off way up the wall and jumping off (To be honest fair play to him for doing that), the equation of events didn't favour Steve. All Steve had to do was lock the rope off and hold on for dear life and he did it brilliantly. What also happened was 14 stone + gravity + 6 to 8 fall = Steve getting fucked up by colliding with the wall (ultimate war wound). 

The climb

I set out on the biggest climb of my career so far 5+ overhanging monster, 21 metres to the top clip and safety. Well I hoped! The first section was fairly easy and I remembered to clip in correctly ( rope next to the wall) and reached the first section of the overhang. I was out of reach of the quickdraw, Shit! I began to panic and sweat profusely from ever pore, some I didn't even know I had. I thought to myself come on get to clip chalk and rest. I made the move and clipped in, the security settled me down and being able to shout "Take" knowing I wasn't going to fall before I could refresh my grip was a relief.

 
Topping out

I manage to amble up the rest of the route fairly easily and had got within one move of the top clip. That's when the wooden arms set in like tight weather perished rubber. COME ON! One last push and I was face to face with the clip. The rope went slack as Dan feed it through so I could pull it up to the clip. I got it to the right height and the fumbling began and continued for what felt like minutes. With my grip ever weakening I had the sobering thought "If I fall now its a 12 to 16 foot drop and definite collision with the wall". Ping! That sound was like heaven, I could now relax and be lowered like Aladdin on his magic carpet to the ground.

I managed 3 more leads that day all the way to the top and pushing up to a 6a grading which is a reasonable standard especially on those monster walls. And after that first route I haven't looked back since and I have had a few scary moment along the way!

Joe    

(Thanks to Steve, Dan and Mark for the support and encouragement! Top guys)